week 1
31.01-6.02
List of lectures
Embroidered codes of Russian clothes. Andrei Borovsky.

Summary of the lecture

Embroidery is primarily a source of information

An example from the lecture is padol.
Tiered horizontal arrangement of embroidery patterns grows from the hem upwards and does not repeat. From "unprotected" suit entrances. talks about the world, the earth. About how the grain falls into the soil and germinates. About how the events of human life are consonant with the rhythms of nature. Female figures - an exit to the earthly plane.
The amount of sleeve embroidery also increases gradually with age and increases from the seam down. The composition of embroidery with tiers is also not repeated.
1.The gradual growth and non-repeating composition of embroidery with each tier is one of the codes for embroidery of Russian clothes.
White color (space empty from embroidery) is also an important code of Russian clothing. This is the unknown, a symbol of death, birth, infinity. However, the white color was not endowed with a negative meaning. Death was perceived as a natural continuation.
2. The balance of white and embroidery is another code of Russian clothing.
There is no embroidery in the child's clothes, it appears gradually from an empty white canvas.
3. Embroidery that no one will ever see (only the owner), which is hidden under layers of other clothes, is another code for Russian embroidery.

The costume of a girl in the period of readiness for marriage and before the birth of her first child
The richest costume becomes when young people are ready to create new families. The costume of a girl of marriageable age and until the birth of the first child. Further, the brightness of the costume and the saturation of the embroidery are on the wane. To old age, when there is nothing more to tell.

Homespun cloth with plain weave had a coordinate system, counted stitches and hundreds of variations.
Embroidery has always been cheaper than store-bought fabric. Cross stitch is a simplification after the advent of factory fabric.

  • Bird. Symbol of happiness, messenger. The bird is free, winged. The messenger of the human soul, the soul mate of the ideal husband. Therefore, it is often depicted on things related to the wedding.
The headdress always tells about the connection with the heavenly. Signs of the sun, how the luminary travels across the sky. Tells how the seasons change as well as the phases of life.
A headdress is a mark of a woman's age (maiden, young woman, woman, old woman)
  • Symbols of horses and deer as drivers and carriers of the sun. The tree as a symbol of time and the change of phases of time, my place in time. Where am I now?
  • Rhombuses and crosses with curved edges are also symbols of the sun.
http://slavmoda.com/russkie-traditsionnye-golovnye-ubory-iz-kollektsii-i-s-glazunova/
http://www.smolensk-museum.ru/afisha/virtualnie-vistavki/zhenskie-golovnye-ubory/
https://kunstkamera.ru/files/lib/5-88431-129-X/5-88431-129-X_01.pdf
Alternative history of the Russian costume: in search of national identity.
Andrei Borovsky.
FALSE AND TALES OF THE RUSSIAN COSTUME.
Andrei Borovsky.
Collections, Analytics
All-Russian Museum of Decorative Arts
Artists
Venera Kazarova
"Artist, fashion designer.

I create clothes for theater and contemporary choreography as well as paper cut objects for decorating the space and photo shoots.

In my work I try to combine my love and passion towards paper & fabric with the use of both materials as well as plastic utensils, polyethylene and everything that comes to hand, especially vintage stuff.
My inspiration comes from nature forms & from dreams & fairy tales."

An interesting animation option using costumes. Stop motion. Abstract sound.
Olya Chikina
"Drawing inspiration from folk tales, Olya transforms characters and invents new ones, creates vivid optical illusions that mix traditional motifs and modern reality."
Johann Nikadimus
Artisan of Russian pearlwork sewing